this is Darlene. I'm in DR Congo for a bit filling in for a colleague. Things are pretty heated way on the other side of the country, but pretty much calm here in Kinshasa (save some small-scale protests against police actions to clear street vendors--more on that in another post).
While Kinshasa is definitely not my favorite place to be posted in the world, it has a few things going for it:
1. A five-star hotel - The Grand Hotel - where I'm staying. It's a bit of a mish-mash, this one. My room is 1960s style, musty, with an ash tray on the bedside table and a bathroom sink that isn't level, so water accumulates behind the faucet. But it has a lovely view of the Congo River and the pool. The elevators have that fancy card technology where you have to swipe your card to punch in your floor number. It works about 75 percent of the time. The lobby is very beautiful, if perpetually overpopulated with men in suits sitting or standing, waiting for something or another. And it certainly seems the place for high-class Congolese folks dressed to the nines to see and be seen. I perpetually feel underdressed, especially at breakfast.
2. High fashion/couture - As mentioned above, Kinshasa and its sister city across the river have a reputation for fashion. And not just any fashion, but seriously expensive duds. The article I've linked is only about men, but women are definitely in on the couture as well, and I don't know if I've ever been around such a concentration of 5-inch heels, fishnets, and short skirts among the young ones, and long, flowing, beautiful drapes in every color imaginable among the more sensible, older crowd.
3. The Congo River - a beautiful, slow-moving river separating Democratic Republic of the Congo from the Republic of the Congo. Don't ask me how they decided which one got dibs on the adjective "democratic." (I've often wondered if using the word "democratic" in your country title actually is a cover for just the opposite). In any case, I had some adventures on the river last time I was here, including our motorboat becoming a paddleboat for a considerable amount of time after running out of gas. Wish I had pictures to share.
4. Expensive restaurants - Okay, this isn't necessarily a positive thing (unless the food is deserving of the expense). But it is quite remarkable. I can easily drop $45 for a single meal, just for me, here, without any special drinks or dessert. Wowza.
5. Live music - I think one of the things I'm paying for during all these meals is the piano player, singer, and/or live band providing entertainment while I cut into my fish or whatever. There is a lovely culture of live music here, which I really appreciate. Last night, I went with co-workers to see Papa Wemba in concert -- he's quite an icon here in DRC, and I feel privileged to have been able to hear (and see) him in concert. Papa Wemba is very influential in soukous music, or Congolese rumba, and he's also quite a performer--in his sixties, he was still dancing . There were two bands playing before he graced us with us with his presence, and by the time he did (11:15 p.m.) we were pretty tired, but it was worth it.
Of course, Kinshasa also faces a number of serious challenges. I will try to write about those another time. For now, let yourself bask in the fantastic-ness of this crazy high fashion:
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